The ABCs of becoming a Weekend Designer:

The first step in becoming a successful "weekend designer" is to find pieces that bring inspiration. Yard sales, estate sales and consignment shops are great places to start. I also recommend your local Hospice consignment shop. Generally speaking, one hundred percent of profit goes to the Hospice in your area as it is usually run by volunteers. It's a great cause that benefits from your purchase, and because of this, it's also a favorite drop-off of high-end donations. Keep in mind that solid, hard-wood pieces are easiest to convert, and make better choices if you're in the market for creating heirlooms. It is possible; however, to create beautiful "refurbs" with laminate, and press board pieces as well, but know that the prep will be more involved. In the end, it's about having the vision to see the potential in each piece. Outdated, faded and down-right ugly pieces all have the potential to be outstanding, if you have the vision. I have even found pieces on a street curb and transformed them into highly desirable works of art. The best part about finding these types of pieces, is that they are free and if it doesn't work out, you can always place it on your own curb. Remember, finishes are easily removed, drawer pulls and hinges can be switched out, and a little paint goes a long way.

Once you've selected a piece to refurb, I suggest doing an online search for images of similar pieces (i.e. armoires, night tables, etc.) to get an idea of the most current trends. More than likely you're creative juices will begin flowing at this point, and you will have a good idea of what you want your finished product to look like.

Next, you will need to make a check list of the supplies you will need to purchase from your local home improvement store, or online store, depending on the price and rarity of your desired items. Take into consideration the material you are working with; hardwood, metal, laminate, plastic, etc. I recommend sanding all pieces with a fine grain sandpaper, even plastic. Sanding will ensure that your finish adheres, and will withstand the test of time. Do not use a rough-grit sand paper as it will leave scratches that will be difficult, if not impossible to cover. Be sure to use a clean dry brush to remove all dust left on the piece after sanding it. A good hardwood piece shouldn't need more than a little paint stripper and a thorough sanding to remove old paint, stain, or sealant. You can sand a piece by hand for more control, or with the help of an electric sander. I tend to use both methods depending on the size and intricacy of my project. If staining the piece, I recommend a high quality top coat sealer to ensure the life of your refurb. I find myself most impressed with Behr's line of stains and sealants. If you are painting, make sure to use a good primer first. I suggest Kilz flat white primer, as white will make the color you have chosen more vibrant and true to the paint chip you have likely used to select your paint. Never use a gloss paint as a primer as your top coat will streak and not stick well, if at all. Just like sanding, the idea of your primer is to ensure that your finishing coat adheres well. Kilz is my primer of choice as I have used it to achieve a flawless cover on everything from laminate furniture, to wall paneling. If you are refurb-ing plastic, I would recommend priming, painting and sealing with Krylon's spray paints for plastic. It covers amazingly well, and holds up. Regardless of the type of material you are working on, be sure your primer has thoroughly dried before applying the top coat. If you live in a humid area like I do, it may be wise to leave it over-night to dry. Painting over primer that has not been allowed to set, can actually cause the surface to become sticky and uneven. Unfortunately, I speak from experience. Before you apply the top coat, you may want to give the primered piece a final, light sanding to further ensure a proper adhesion. Again, remember to clean any loose dust off with a clean, dry brush before painting. My top coat of choice is Valspar. Over the years I have found this brand to withstand the test of use and time. Also keep in mind that the longevity of your refurb will rely on the way in which you maintain it, whether it be cleaning with a damp rag or a good furniture oil. I highly caution against the packaged cleaning clothes, presoaked in popular house-hold cleaning solutions. While these do a great job cleaning your kitchen countertops, they are highly abrasive to painted and sealed surfaces. As an alternative; unscented baby wipes work well to clean painted surfaces, and a small dab of olive oil on a clean clothe goes a long way in reviving the shine and visible grain of treated wood. Tip; It's a good idea to pass this knowledge along if you are giving your refurb as a gift, or selling it. In doing so, the recipient / buyer will be spared the upset of having a shoddy refurb piece down the road, and you will have solidified a reputation for both yourself as well as the pieces you create.